Yesterday started by picking up the bicycles from the shop loading on the back of the truck in the rain and heading out to Thee's house. What was an empty shell the last time is was here is now a vibrant little shop and household, though thee tell me it doesn't make much money at the moment.
After some spicy dip and galangal and pigs uterus soup we got on the bike and headed on our way. The ride to Xieng Ngeun to get on the boat took about 20 min through the rice fields and random sa-bai-dee's from passing children. As is custom we waited for about half an hour at the dock for the boat to get prepared. What was different was that while I waiting we indulged in a spot of fishing and watch to goats getting weighed on a set of scales for suited to weighing rice. The goat, with legs tied perched in a basket upon the scales that had seen a few years. The goats looked less than impressed about the whole affair.
Eventually the bike where placed in the boat, fuel was paid for and we headed on our way up the river. The river was high and powerful due to the wet season rainfall and the small outboard motor struggled again the flow. Quickly crossing the river each time to be near the river bank and avoid the main current, as well as take the shortest route. About five minutes into the journey the rain started and didn't really stop until we reached our destination in Pak Bak. The raincoat that I thought would be useless proved valuable in the cool wind and rain.
The journey was less romantic than previously. Whereas there used to be a real feeling of going somewhere a long way from anywhere, the river bank is now lined with a road and power lines that have been built to give access to construction vehicles for the building of two new dams. More on this later.
We arrived in Pak Bak only to find that the teachers where out of town on training due to it being school holidays. Immediately I was disappointed about what could be achieved from the three day trip. But the show must go and Regardless of being able to meet with the teachers I did have a three day adventure tour to look forward to. With bikes packed and ready we headed off into the mountains. The road cleared by Vietnamese construction crews in exchange to collection of hardwood was built with little durability in mind and hasn't really survived the wet season. The road is peppered with landslides and washed away entirely by the odd river here and there. All in all with the rain the track was challenging to navigate and we were sufficiently dirty by the end of it.
After leaving the village of Pak Bak we past through Ban Kok, and houay kasak before arriving in Pak Pong towards the end of the day. All the villages gave changed since I have been there. Pak Bak and Ban Kok have both seen the addition of other people from other villages higher In the mountains as the government tries to get people cooed to education and health services. Houay kasak still remains but some people have moved to Ban Kok and there is no longer a school provided for the students here.
To make a ling story short we arrived with minimal fuss in what was a pleasant after noon cycling. Having walked the track previously, riding was quite pleasant and quick.
This was my third time in Pak Pong and while some faces are now familiar the faces of the children change quickly that I couldn't remember. Most greeted me with the quiet skepticism of the first time, except one who spoke a little bit of english and greeted me with a big smile and handshake. We spent quiet evening eating with the family and drinking lao whisky, as is custom. And I turned In for an early nights rest.
The next morning we were greeted by rain, which made for a slow start to the day. In it's place we stumbled from breakfast to secondses, through to
Morning tea and lunch. By then the weather had cleared and we were ready to head up to the last village Bak fen. Webhad heard that there may have been a landslide on the road making it impassable so we opted for the boat. This also presented an opportunity to do some fishing on the way. This turned out to be quite an adventure.
The river was swollen due to the recent rainfall presenting many hazard. Our expert driver carved his way up the river with dexterity stopping only to collect worms for fishing.
Fishing can be done in many ways and this technique involved attaching a line and hook to a stake and placing these along the riverbank. You then collect
them a few hours later and see what you got. This process involves a fair bit of swimming so ibwas a little surprised when all four locals in the boat jumped into the river and carried downstream like in a storm water drain and Thea and I were left waiting and hoping in the boat. About half an hour later they appeared again this time from upstream. I felt like the river had become a playground and was merely a loop that you could go around.
With everyone back in the boat we continued upstream navigating past a tree that had fallen across the river.
Arriving in Bak Fen we were fortunate that the teacher an chief of the village were home. So we had a meeting to look at their desires. After some discussion it was concluded that what was most needed was 41 tables and chairs for around $800. Ideally they would like a new school but at a price tag of around 15,000 this is beyond the project budget. This was a good end to the day and a good outcome for the village.
After the meeting we quickly met with thee's sister before descending down the rapids to Pak pong. An exhilarating ride and we picked up a couple of eels and fish from the stakes that has been set out. It was well after sunset by the time we got back which required showing in the dark. The night was rounded off with another Basi ceremony and plenty of Lao whisky. Most amusing were the rambling of one of the elders that apparently couldn't decide whether to speak vietnamese or khmu and thus couldn't be understood by anyone.
That is enough for today, more on the return journey tomorrow.
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