A trip down memory lane

On Tuesday I arrived in the Netherlands from New York having spent three days in personal development workshop using concept from theatre to expand the range of accesible movements and vocalizations. That was a great and empowering workshop which gave me a whole stack of new tools use in in life. I also met some very impressive and well known actors who gave a us a personal performance that reminded me again of the full power and drama of the theatre. Overall the three days were an awesome experience.

Back in holland, we did some final planning for the cycling trip that I have been planning for the last six months. Living in Australia makes it difficult to get a sense of the childhood lives of my parents, on a rural island in the Netherlands. So I decided to spend three days riding across the island with my brother and retrace the lives of my parents.

So you can imagine my excitement when I walked into the living room and see my mother there wrapped up as a Christmas present. Secretly arranged between my mum and her sister, she surprised us all by discreetly making her way to holland to be here for this trip. This was fortuitous as she was able to provide a real personal touch to the trip.

The following day we left Delft and headed through Massland south toward the Rhine delta that makes up the southern part of holland. Travelling across dunks and through fishing villages we started to collect the many stories of how the Dutch and reshaped the landscape and brought the waters under control trough dijk's, locks and windmills. After a brief coffee, tea and rain shower in Maasluis we headed across the river toward Brielle and Hellevoetsluis where the weather looked clearer.

We stopped briefly outside of Brielle for lunch before heading into the fort to have a look around. We didn't stay for long as we had a log way to go.

Cycling through the field and agricultural regions we started to get a taste of life on the island but we had to get through Hellevoetsluis and over the artificial sea wall that had been part of the Deltawerken. The Deltawerken was a large construction project put in place after the floods of 1953, which my mum experienced. This, the worst flood in Dutch history did huge damage in the islands of south holland and killed more the 3000 people. So this wouldn't happen again the Dutch spent billions stregthening the dijk's and sea walls that essentially separate the delta and the sea into two system which the flow between them can be controlled.

Arriving on the island we reached our destination for the day , Stellendam. This village was wiped out in the flood and so there is little left over from the past and is now a popular weekend destination for sailors, wind surfers and other water loving people.

We checked in at our privately run B&B before jumping back on our bicycles to the coast. On the west (coastal) side of the island are dunes where my mum used to go walking with the family. We cycled there as the afternoon sun faded. Arriving at 't flauwe werk' as the evening sun was setting and the lights of boat waiting outside of port started to light up.

We cycled back in the dark stopping at a lit up windmill in Goederede were we chatted with Tom whose friend is the manager. He, clearly on the way home from the pub, invited us around for a cup of tea. Unfortunately it was late and we had a big day tomorrow and so we headed by the shortest route back to our waiting beds.

The following was the first of September and my mum arrived at the B&B to join us for breakfast. The hostess was happy to add another plate. Breakfast was a plentiful continental breakfast like I had never had one!!

It just happened to be my birthday that day, and so the attention was squarely as my mum gave me a beautiful photographic book as a present and that was just the beginning.

We left as a pack and headed toward Mellisant where an old family friend managed a nursery setup to give mentally disabled people meaningful work. The nursery setup from scratch over fifteen years is testament as to what is possible with a little leadership. We sat and had tea and chatted before getting back on two wheels.

The day was filled with many moment of which three stand out. Firstly, going to a narrow lane only to emerge in a graveyard that contained the grave of my mum second brother who born in the war died after 9 months. To everyone's surprise the grave was still there and had a new plaque on it. It is a mystery as to who created the plaque.

Second was walking up past the church to the town hall alongside my mother. The same path she walked with my dad 30 years ago the day they got married. I could imagine them all walking together like a parade garnering to attention of the whole village.

Lastly it was the afternoon drinks along the harbour of Middleharnis. Sharing a drink there with loved ones was splendid, radiant that we were, in the summer sun.

The evening capped off what was a majestic day as we are near the restaurant (it was closed) that my grandmother took me when I visited some years ago (kofje kookertje). To my surprise, our little tour group was joined by my Aunt, cousin and friends. The meal was great and the atmosphere fulfilling. The staff there were excellent. When it came to dessert mine was the last to arrive. When it did finally come it arrived with dimmed lights, and small flaming firework on the plate and with Stevie wonder singing happy birthday just for me. It was a moment not to be forgotten! No words can ever capture the thanks I would like to give to all for that experience.

But it wasn't finished yet. While my mum returned home with the my aunt and family, our little tour group continued on for another day. This time starting in Oude Tonge where my dad lived in his formative years. We had stayed in a country B&B that included 'bedstee', which is a bed in a cupboard that was used to keep warm in days gone by. Sleeping in here was quite fun. In the morning we ate breakfast in the fields next to the goats and chickens and overlooking the endless rows of corn.

We were on our way around 10 am where we headed east and off the island. Along the way we passed a 'gemaal' which was named after my grandfather how managed the dijk's of the area from 1925-1955. My dad also played there as a child.

We cycled in though the fields and through the smaller villages of the island before taking to long straight road and bridge off the island towards Willemstad, another fortified city. Along the way we saw more of the sluice gates, bridges and locks that form the deltaworks. Watching the many transport ship carrying goods every which-way.

Willemstad is one of the best preserved fort towns in holland and it is a beautiful city. I would want to be there o. The weekend as it would be packed. But being there on a Friday we stopped in for am ice cream and viewed the battlements. Renee particularly enjoyed the bunker which had been built over many years; most recently during the second world war by the Germans.

The rest of the afternoon we spent riding through the open agricultural fields of the region feeding sheep, horses and cows all while avoiding the rolling tractors transporting potatoes.

In the late afternoon we arrived and the train station of Zevenbergen, where a kind conductor allowed us on the trains with our bikes even though it was peak hour, so we where home early for dinner which was rice with meatball sauce that my mum had cooked for me on request.

The thing to learn from all this is that family is something worth exploring and holding onto!!

Sometimes things aren't as simple as they seem

So we retuned to the city with vague instructions about we needed to do. It would take a few days for thing to be clarified, but essentially, one village required a new set of 41 tables and chairs, and for the rest the standard educational supplies and a set of sporting clothing for the annual inter-village sports event. Having no idea how much this would cost, the next few days was spent answering these questions.

The first of the questions was how to build the tables and chairs they required. The village teacher and chief had indicated that they could create the tables and chair in the village using local wood. They estimated that they would be able to build all 41 tables and chairs to 6,500,000 Kip (815USD). Getting the village to build the tables come with some benefits; and sense of ownership, development of local skills, and more money going in to the local economy. However there are additional risks; the level of workmanship; controls on the expenditure of the money; availability of the people.

It was fortunate then that while I was in Pak Pong I noticed that World Vision had been through and supplied the village with new tables and chairs. So I went around to the world vision office in luang prabang and had a chat with one of the staff there. He proved very helpful in providing advice on suppliers, processes and other questions that he had. He even gave me his number to call if I needed any further assistance. Armed with this information we headed out to the furniture factory. Again discussion largely led by Thee affirmed what the staff at world vision had told me. Priced at approx $41 each the total cost of the tables and chairs was around the $1700. This was substantially more that the $815 quoted by the villages. After lengthy discussions it was decided to have the tables and chairs made in the village as it would be cheaper and encourage skill development in the area, which is inline with the objectives of the project.

The shopping for educational supplies was much simpler as it was a matter of finding out how much it would all cost and match that against the available budget. It took a few days to finalize but in the end for 550 school books , pens, pencils, paper, markers, scissors, glue, soccer balls, speak Takraw balls and nets for five schools cost less than $700. As a result we were able to meet all of need of all the schools in the budget. With money left over to support the annual village sporting event with uniforms for all participants.

This is an outstanding result for the project and provides the required operational support to the schools, allowing the teachers to teach more effectively. Unfortunately timing meant that I am unable to be present for the delivery of the goods to the villages as Thee has to work and then I have to leave to Bangkok.

So having bought most of the materials I have left the final logistics in Thee capable hands to deliver over the next couple of months. I look forward to the receiving photos and updates from him.

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The last two days

The last two days have been great and character building at the same time. Yesterday full of confidence I joined a cycling tour with Thee from Luang Prabang. 

The morning started well, meeting him for coffee and then helping him prepare everything as we left town. Due to the geography, the cycling doesn't actually start until about 70km outside of Luang Prabang, so there was a long scenic ride through the mountain before we finally got on our wheels.

But by 12:00 we were on our bike riding gleefully down the hill. Thee had put me on duties as an extra man on the road, so I kept an eye on the eight others and made sure they were all right. About 2 hours into the ride I descended down at a reasonable speed in order to catch up with one of the cyclist who was ahead of me. At various point there was water across the road and I new not to turn when going through them to avoid falling over. However eventually I came to one which was my undoing and my front wheel cam out from underneath me and I hit the ground probably doing 15-20 kilometers an hour. Being the cowboy that I also wasn't wearing a helmet. 

Well, I was shocked as I have had a serious bicycling incident in a long time and at first I was worried about my state. I had hit my head on the road so my first concern was whether my head was okay and was pleased to find that there was not blood coming from my skull. So the head was fine. A day later I don't really even have a bruise. SO then I checked the rest of my body and I was lucky to get away with a few scratches on different parts of my body, but nothing to serious. I also have some muscle damage in my should that bore the brunt of the fall. So we weren't off to a good start.

From there I rode to the bottom of the hill to clean myself and wait to get my bag from the support car to access my first aid kit. About 5 min later Thee arrived in the car and I told him what happened and that I needed my first aid kit. I went to the car to look for the bag that had some band aids and my passport and much to my surprise and horror, I couldn't find it.

I was then that I realised I had left my passport back in Luang Prabang and now needed to call people, but I had no reception. So there wasn't much I could do other than push on.

As a group we rode further and about an hour later arrived at a build up of traffic. Being cyclist we rode right up to the front to find that a landslide had covered the road and there was only one way traffic going through and every fourth truck was getting stuck. So we ended up waiting as a group for about 1 hour before we could get through. Mean while it was starting to rain so everything was getting wet an dirty.

I continued through the mountains supporting one of the cyclists that was coming up behind and we were doing really well until the rain really started coming down, at which point I jumped in Thee's car a wet, a little cold, annoyed and distracted about my passport. We arrived in the next town were the rest of the group was sheltering in a shop. There we had lunch were I continued to try to make calls but not having any success.

Eventually I enlisted the assistance of Thee who phoned a friend who owned a guesthouse down the road from where I stayed and got him to walk up the road to the guesthouse where I was staying. Luckily enough the bag was there and no-one had taken it. I took a while to confirm that it was my bag and what was in it. But eventually the bag was handed over to Thee friend has arranged for transport of the passport to where I am. I should receive the passport in the next hour. This all took a process of two hours to arrange.

After that my spirits were lifted but I still could handle descending more mountains so I decided to travel the rest of the day in the car. Before the end of the day we came across another landslide across the road, this time a truck was stuck and not going anywhere fast. The smaller vehicles had managed to create a risky but possible track to go around in and Thee successfully maneuvered his truck through the obstacle around to the other side. From there on it was smooth sailing through to the Guesthouse in Kasi.

So by the end of the day I was still a little battered and bruised from the fall and relieved that my passport was not completely lost and so I was able to enjoy a hot shower and dinner with reasonable grace.

Today the ride to Vang Vieng was beautiful though uneventful. It was more beautiful than I had thought having traveled this road many times. But Laos at this time of year is especially attractive. Tomorrow, more cycling a boat trip and a swimming pool to look forward too at the end. I am going to hopefully collect my passport shortly. 

 

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Website: http://ignatris@blogspot.com

Time to go shopping

We had made it. We had gone to the villages and obtained at least some of what they wanted and had left messages with the other teacher about how to get the messages to us.

Now it was just the long ride back to Xieng Ngeun. After some overcast days and plenty of rain. The return journey was cursed with blazing sunlight. As we made our way through the early village this was bareable as the roads were shaded. But after we had crossed the river to the other side the open roads provided no respite from the sun.

This new main road has been contracted for the development of two dams along the nam kan river. A road like this changes the game for many people in the villages as the time and financial cost to get to the main town is reduced. It also allow external people to get to the villages. It is probably a little fortunate that the road along the nam fen was not well made and cannot support cars and motorbikes. This way the local people get the benefit with out too many negative impacts apart from the great scar that is left on the landscape. It should also be made clear that the road is something that the local people generally see as a good thing.

The main road however is different. This is part of a very large engineering project operated by Chinese companies. They bring in heavy machinery and a different working style that has created tensions in the communities with fights breaking out. I have been told that Laos people have been paid compensation for incidents like these from the Chinese companies but over the longer term it will probably lead to a growing distrust between the two ethnicities. The whole operation is typical of a messy industrial site with very modest working conditions for the workers and is a big departure from the normal day to day living of the lao people.

The main road was much less challenging the road along the nam fen and we quickly made up the kilometers with long downhill section providing a little high speed enjoyment that made me a little nervous from having no protection on. But in the end the only danger was the sun that gradually turned me red. A lunch break at a small restaurant on the side of the road was welcome before we got back on the bikes and cycled the last two kilometers to Xieng Ngeun.

From Xieng it was five km on sealed road to Thee house were we recovered briefly before heading back to luang prabang. I should also mention that accompanying Thee and myself on this journey was a retired guide from the tiger trail trekking company. This well spoken lad had set his sights on travel and after saving some money is going traveling around his country and maybe further abroad. I had some very good discussion with him about a range of matters. But one that struck a chord with me was his interest in building a vocational college for under-privelidged youth in the luang prabang region. This would require a substantial amount of investment and money, but if there are any investors or philanthropists interested in creating such an institution. Let me know and we can start a conversation on how to turn this idea into a reality.

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An unexpected day off.

Note: this entry precedes the earlier entry

This morning I awoke and completed a morning run before settling in for a quiet day of administration. That was until I got speaking to nigel at the guest house. Nice English lad in his 40s who had just dried a local Laos girl, Ngoy, 3 months ago and where spending a little time traveling through Laos. As I sipped my tea and the conversation progressed he and his partner invited me to join them for the day and go see the waterfalls. Keen for a swim I decided to put my plans on hold and jumped in the car. However by that stage there was a Japanese lady, Yumi and her Chinese friend, Hen in the bus; an Italian couple, allesandra and andreas, another laotian couple, four children and an older women, Song. So it was a full van. Then on the way to the waterfall we picked up another two people to complete the party bus.

We headed out to the kuang si waterfall about 25 km south of luang prabang. There our guide order an array of food and we wandered as a troop up to the waterfall stopping briefly to shelter from a monsoonal rain.

The kuang si waterfall is quite stunning even in the rain and to have the privilege of eating a Laos picnic in the waters of the waterfall was gladly taken. We ate a mighty feast of fish, chicken, pork, quail and papaya salad, all while receiving quizzical looks from passing falang.

We then walked along the river went for a short swim, said hi to the bears before jumping back on the party but to the tad se waterfall.

The tad se waterfall is only accessible by boat and is a beautiful waterfall that is perfect for swimming. So the kids and a few others got in the water and enjoyed a little fun. We then treated ourselves to some beer lao before getting back on the boat to where the van was parked.

Before we wen back to the city there was one last stop. Not had an uncle in the village and thought we should drop past. Turns out they were organising a Basi ceremony and invited us inwith food and Lao Lao. All in all it made for a great day and celebration. The welcoming and fun loving nature of the lao people shone through all day. This point was further elaborated as we were given a karaoke special in the van all the way back to luang prabang. It was loud, good and not so good but always done in pure joy.

By the time u was dropped back at the hotel it was night time. I thought I would have a quick nap before heading out for some evening dancing with Nigel and noy, however weariness became me and I did not wake up till hours later, missing an opportunity. I was however glad to have some rest.

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A day out

Right now I am sitting in the village of Pak Pong having just finished breakfast. The past 24 hours have been met with the quiet and curious stares of the local people. Most notably the children who continue to approach me with an air of skepticism. I don't think that any of the younger children I met last time remember me.

Yesterday started by picking up the bicycles from the shop loading on the back of the truck in the rain and heading out to Thee's house. What was an empty shell the last time is was here is now a vibrant little shop and household, though thee tell me it doesn't make much money at the moment.

After some spicy dip and galangal and pigs uterus soup we got on the bike and headed on our way. The ride to Xieng Ngeun to get on the boat took about 20 min through the rice fields and random sa-bai-dee's from passing children. As is custom we waited for about half an hour at the dock for the boat to get prepared. What was different was that while I waiting we indulged in a spot of fishing and watch to goats getting weighed on a set of scales for suited to weighing rice. The goat, with legs tied perched in a basket upon the scales that had seen a few years. The goats looked less than impressed about the whole affair.

Eventually the bike where placed in the boat, fuel was paid for and we headed on our way up the river. The river was high and powerful due to the wet season rainfall and the small outboard motor struggled again the flow. Quickly crossing the river each time to be near the river bank and avoid the main current, as well as take the shortest route. About five minutes into the journey the rain started and didn't really stop until we reached our destination in Pak Bak. The raincoat that I thought would be useless proved valuable in the cool wind and rain.

The journey was less romantic than previously. Whereas there used to be a real feeling of going somewhere a long way from anywhere, the river bank is now lined with a road and power lines that have been built to give access to construction vehicles for the building of two new dams. More on this later.

We arrived in Pak Bak only to find that the teachers where out of town on training due to it being school holidays. Immediately I was disappointed about what could be achieved from the three day trip. But the show must go and Regardless of being able to meet with the teachers I did have a three day adventure tour to look forward to. With bikes packed and ready we headed off into the mountains. The road cleared by Vietnamese construction crews in exchange to collection of hardwood was built with little durability in mind and hasn't really survived the wet season. The road is peppered with landslides and washed away entirely by the odd river here and there. All in all with the rain the track was challenging to navigate and we were sufficiently dirty by the end of it.

After leaving the village of Pak Bak we past through Ban Kok, and houay kasak before arriving in Pak Pong towards the end of the day. All the villages gave changed since I have been there. Pak Bak and Ban Kok have both seen the addition of other people from other villages higher In the mountains as the government tries to get people cooed to education and health services. Houay kasak still remains but some people have moved to Ban Kok and there is no longer a school provided for the students here.

To make a ling story short we arrived with minimal fuss in what was a pleasant after noon cycling. Having walked the track previously, riding was quite pleasant and quick.

This was my third time in Pak Pong and while some faces are now familiar the faces of the children change quickly that I couldn't remember. Most greeted me with the quiet skepticism of the first time, except one who spoke a little bit of english and greeted me with a big smile and handshake. We spent quiet evening eating with the family and drinking lao whisky, as is custom. And I turned In for an early nights rest.

The next morning we were greeted by rain, which made for a slow start to the day. In it's place we stumbled from breakfast to secondses, through to
Morning tea and lunch. By then the weather had cleared and we were ready to head up to the last village Bak fen. Webhad heard that there may have been a landslide on the road making it impassable so we opted for the boat. This also presented an opportunity to do some fishing on the way. This turned out to be quite an adventure.

The river was swollen due to the recent rainfall presenting many hazard. Our expert driver carved his way up the river with dexterity stopping only to collect worms for fishing.

Fishing can be done in many ways and this technique involved attaching a line and hook to a stake and placing these along the riverbank. You then collect
them a few hours later and see what you got. This process involves a fair bit of swimming so ibwas a little surprised when all four locals in the boat jumped into the river and carried downstream like in a storm water drain and Thea and I were left waiting and hoping in the boat. About half an hour later they appeared again this time from upstream. I felt like the river had become a playground and was merely a loop that you could go around.

With everyone back in the boat we continued upstream navigating past a tree that had fallen across the river.

Arriving in Bak Fen we were fortunate that the teacher an chief of the village were home. So we had a meeting to look at their desires. After some discussion it was concluded that what was most needed was 41 tables and chairs for around $800. Ideally they would like a new school but at a price tag of around 15,000 this is beyond the project budget. This was a good end to the day and a good outcome for the village.

After the meeting we quickly met with thee's sister before descending down the rapids to Pak pong. An exhilarating ride and we picked up a couple of eels and fish from the stakes that has been set out. It was well after sunset by the time we got back which required showing in the dark. The night was rounded off with another Basi ceremony and plenty of Lao whisky. Most amusing were the rambling of one of the elders that apparently couldn't decide whether to speak vietnamese or khmu and thus couldn't be understood by anyone.

That is enough for today, more on the return journey tomorrow.

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Nam Fen Schools Project - Background

I think it is time for some background for people that are new to this blog.

This journey started back in 2007 when I lefty Australia to travel through south east Asia for 6 months. During that time I spent 6 weeks in Laos and under took a range of exciting activities that helped me fall in love with this beautiful country. The most special experience was taking six days and heading into a remote village to really get a sense of village life. I was taken into the family household of the guide I was with and ate, slept and worked alongside them for the six days. It was a truly unique experience and one which will shape the rest of my life.

My parents always told me that education is key to improving your life and so I was struck by the effect that having such limited access to educational resources would have on the opportunities the children of the area would have in the future. With broken blackboards an absence of books and teaching resources these kids will be doing it tough in the modern knowledge economy.

So I started with a small gesture of buying two blackboards for one of the villages and it all grew from there. After a successful music fundraiser in 2009 and a more successful trivia night in 2010, I have returned to Laos with around $4000 to spend on supplying resources that the teachers need. And that is why I am here.

My team involves a good friend of mine Thee who guided me the first time and he enlists the help of friends and family to manage the logistical operations. We met again today and talked of our plans over the next two weeks.

In that discussion it became apparent that there is much that is changing.In the last two years one of the villages (Houay Kasak) has been merged with another village, Ban Kok. In addition and a little concerning is that there is now a road that provides access to all the villages in the area that was built by Vietnamese construction crews. Why this came about is because the Chinese are building two dams along the Nam Kahn river which the Nam Fen feeds into and roads have been built to allow construction crews in. From there it was only a reasonably short extension to build a road to the five villages of the Nam Fen river. What the impact of this will be is yet to be determined but life is definitely changing and these villages are becoming less isolated. This creates opportunities and costs that need to be managed.

The other point of interest is that the government is taking a greater interest in what we are doing and want to put additional controls in place, including itemised tracking of what material goes in. A side effect that is emerging of providing money to these villages is that the education office, wanting to use its limited budget effectively, wants to shift money away from the villages I am working with and provide it to other villages. this is a little concerning and I need to be careful that the villages along the Nam Fen don't end up with a net loss.

So these are the stories of note and challenges as we move into the next phase. Keen to hear your comments and ideas on how to move forward.

See the facebook page if you would like to comment https://www.facebook.com/group.php?gid=91621187391

I dug two holes and was stood on

So I dug two holes at the Abundant water compound as part of landscaping activities that are underway. Unfortunately for me just as I started digging the sun came out from behind the grey could increasing the burnt temperature by about 5 degrees. So it didn't take long or the sweat to be dripping off my forehead. These were the first holes I have dug in some time and also the first time gardening for sometime. So what seems like an ordinary experience, was actually a satisfying achievement.

The day started as normal with the catchup on emails and and other errands before heading out to the compound. On the way we stopped to pick up lunch from the market. BBQ chicken giblets and pork sausages, with bread (without the ants) and stewed vege's. Simple but tasty.

At the compound I observed further to work of Abundant Water and the delicacies of working with Laos staff. Both Chantana and Noukam. Are committed workers and with a little coaching keep the show running on a day to day basis.

Riding back to Vientiene past the market, Sunny suggested we go have a massage to ease our tired muscles. He did this by first asking the question what is your pain threshold. This was the right question as a Laos massage is not for the light hearted. Using feet and all I was stretched, tenderized and beaten softly, such that it would be impossible to say that it hadn't done something.

The evening was spent watching (sleeping through) 'The good, the bad and the ugly' with Sunny and friends at his salubrious house.

The next day was spent in town, running errands and preparing to leave to luang prabang. The only event of note was the open mic night at a secret expat location away from the tourists. There I had the opportunity to express my talent to an appreciative but inattentive crowd. But that is the life of a performer.

So now the real journey begins as we start to find out how much $4000 can really buy you.

Ciao

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Day 2 and the rain continues

So I found out yesterday that a typhoon had recently hit the region and thailand and Laos are suffering from flooding in regional areas. So far the human toll is limited but once again the poor regions have to rebuild their lives. The remaining clouds hanging over the region are the left overs of the typhoon and according to the weather forecast will be around a bit longer.

But enough about tue weather. Yesterday was productive as I caught up with Sunny from Abundant Water and he kindly took me out to the research compound. The first impression of a compound full of old vehicles and boats was nit what I expected. But tucked away at the back the etched outline of a kiln could be see shading under a tim roof. Next to it a shed and container indicated that work was a foot. Sunny gave me an explanation of the recent developments of the project and showed me, to my surprise, examples of the finalized filter which was a long way from the simple bowl I had seen in Australia.

Driven by engineering concerns and the villagers desire to feel hi-tech, the form has become sharper with straight lines and the inclusion of plastic parts. Not Because it had to, but because the synthetic nature is expected to increase the take up.

The people at Abundant Water have done some great thinking about what it is going to take to get the technology deployed, and in doing so some of the approaches are counter intuitive from a development perspective. Mainly around ensuring that the technology becomes fashionable.

I know I haven't said much in detail here, as it is not mine to say, so I encourage you to go visit their webpage. www.abundantwater.org

The evening was spent with expatriates doing development work with the Laos government and discussing the joys and frustrations thereof. The night was spent at the hotel, chatting with the locals, and englishman and an Iraqi over a few beers.

The morning run was great for the mind and soup for breakfast satisfied the body. Now for some tea. Till next time.

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Day 1

Well, I made it.

This is my third trip for the year and starting to feel rather at home at airports. The familar procedures and structures are becoming all to common. So it was nice when leaving bangkok on Laos airlines, the ground crew all stood in a line and waved us out. A touching gesture from a small company competing against the giants of the airline industry. I think I was I'm the smallest plane to leave Bangkok that day. It's prop engines no match for the jets that surrounded it.

It is of course the wet season and the distinction is all too apparent. Where I remember Laos almost always in the sunshine, I haven't seen the sun yet as the grey clouds meander slowly over from Thailand.

Change is rapid in these parts. Last time I was here the waterfront in Vientiene was a messy organic bank of wild plant and the trucks were just moving in. Now it is a concrete waterfront as seen in many great cities, with a park and new road behind. It is great for a morning run and I hope only that the night market remains.

Life is slow as idle tuk-tuk driver wait for passengers and casual conversations line the sidewalks. That is not to stay that the city doesn't live. As I arrived last night I saw my first crime in Laos as a young boy ripped a necklace of a lady's neck and jumped on an awaiting moto and sped away. There wad nothing to do it happened so quickly leaving only and echo of voices and air of disappointment.

This is after all the big city and every year the roads get harder to cross.

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The journey begins

It's 8:30 and I am sitting in a cafe sending out a few final text messages before I go offline. It has been a long time coming and I can't quite believe that I am about to embark on the journey of a lifetime.

My first stop is Laos. Where, with the support of friends and colleagues in Canberra, I will be spending over $4000 on school equipment and resources for six schools in the luang prabang region.

From there I go to New york to spend two day exploring movement and speech with some of the top theatre trainers in the US.

Then I go home. And I really mean home as I go explore and regenerate the lives of my parents in the small country villages where they grew up and got married.

After celebrating my 30th birthday I will be joined by Renee and travel through copenhagen and oslo into the norwegian fjords.

And finally I travel to Beijing to. Celebrate the wedding of a mentor and friend and experience to home life of a Chinese family.

thanks to all that have helped me create this journey and allowing me to see the opportunity.

Next stop: Vientiane.

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Putting on weight in Penang

Waking up early we showered and packed, chowed down some Rotti Chennai before getting on the bus back to Ipoh. After toying with the idea of spending a day in taiping, we instead changed our mind and decided to go to Penang a day early and meet up with a friend. She had kindly offered to drove down from Penang and meet us in Ipoh and provide us with what was to be a food tour de force of Penang.

After some confusion as to which bus station we were to meet at we finally connected at the entrance to the train station 100 meters down the road. As always it is nice to see a familiar face when traveling in foreign land. She greeted us with a big smile and quickly whisked us away to eat some local yum cha. There we ate steamed pork with century egg and a variety of other exotic savory and sweets, all delicious, though occasionally dubious in origin. Fully consumed we got back in her car and headed south out of town to a cave that has been renovated into a buddist temple. The managing family has worked for many year to and a elaborate on the caves raw canvas. Along with requisite statue the walls of the cave had the moulded and smoothed to allow for a large array of paintings to be created. All in all it is one of the nicer cave temples that I have seen and included a well formed staircase to take to the top of the limestone karst in which the cave is found, from which you have panoramic views of Ipoh. After about 1 hour in the cave Millicent introduced us to pomelo which is a slightly less bitter grapefruit before we headed towards Penang.

The trip takes a few hours but is quicker when traveling by car at 140kph. So we arrived safely at the ferry terminal in the early afternoon and with a bit of coercion managed to jump the que cutting the waiting time. Penang is an island that probably has more people on it than it can handle and so even with a bridge and ferry it cannot accommodate effectively the traffic wanting to get on and off the island each day. Traffic on the island isn't much better. We made it to our hotel, the hutton lodge, a refurbished heritage building, took a quick shower and headed off into the city to get some food. Now were not aware of this but my friend ha already been planning all the things we could do. Most of them involving food. First up to help quench the thirst and feed the stomach we stopped in at the famous Chandol and Penang Laksa. Now Chandol is an iced coconut and coffee type dish with green noodles an red kidney bean. It is about the oddest combination dessert that I have come across but is very refreshing in the hot Penang climate. That followed by a bowl of hot Penang lakes in which the coconut is taken out and the fishyness is added was good to satisfy the body and mind.

From there we did a spot of shopping and drove along the northern coastal route to the famous bath ferrenghi. The most famous beach on penang island and where most of the major hotels are located and also a point of particular traffic difficulties. We were taken here for dinner by Millicent who was in turn in invited by and friend she does her morning walks with. Daphne, is also a environmental advocate after retiring from being s reflexology. Rumour has it that she was involved in getting the rapid bus public transport system established. Anyway the restaurant that she took us to was no insignificant restaurant. The ferrenghi gardens restaurant is an elaborate restaurant that as been put together meticulously by it's owner over more than a decade. The place is teeming with plants, flower a waterfall fish that are all real. In addition the seating areas are organized and themed with ornaments and artwork that gives the whole place a personal feel. Daphne who has frequented to place over many years and friend of the owner gave us a tour of the restaurant including the kitchen viewing area.

After seating and eating our meals the owner stopped by for a chat and told us of events earlier in the day when six village houses were burnt down in a fire. One of his staff resided in one of those houses and so the owner generously organized his staff and the staff of other hotels to come to the aid of the villagers and gave them food and accommodation for the night. His whole story was layered with criticism of the government, who he felt had not stepped up and failed in their duty of care to the citizens. The night was roundly finished off by a song played at our table by the house trio. We headed back having had a great night and fully satisfied particularly the deliciously tender satay beef skewers on offer n

Now I had gone to the doctor just before i went on leave and found that I weighed in at a meager 57kg. 3 kilos lighter than I though I was. So as we continued our food tour of Penang there was and underlying need for me to eat enough to put on those lost kilos. So when Millicent picked us up in the early afternoon after again fighting traffic to get to us we went straight to lunch. This time we went in to the Indian quarter and sat on a corner with a collection of hawker stands we we ate yam cake along with other specialities selected by milli. I ate all the plates empty and then we headed on our way. Weaving through the streets of Penang, this time island away from the hustle and bustle to a temple whose name escapes me at the base of Penang hill. This temple which seems inconspicuous from a distance is an impressive complex that even has a cable car to take you to the large statue at the top. To get there however you need to rum the gauntlet of shops of trinkets and trivialities, then past the turtle moat where turtles clamber and compete for each inch of dry land, before finally reaching the entrance to the temple itself. There are a wide range of temples and rooms in the chinese buddist temple in varying levels of ornateness, however it as the main hall whose floor to ceiling stone carved wall and columns left be in awe. On like other that I had seen that were moulded concrete, thee looked like they were all carved by hand from stone. A tremendous amount of work. The interior wall where all painted with large chandeliers on the ceiling. All this to house five statues of Buddha in various guises. Other than the forbidden city at this point I cannot remember a more impressive Buddhist hall.

But that is not all, there is also a six story pagoda which you can climb with spectacular views over Georgetown and then right at the top by cable car there is a large statue of (name to be found and inserted) which was actually burnt down last year, providing a great fire spectacle for the city. A lantern on the hill so to speak and is now in the process of being reconstructed in concrete. Again the view of the city is great and with mini status of each of the Chinese year animals ( there must be a better name??) placed in a garden setting it provides a nice plateau to sit and relax for a moment. Though someone will need to explain to be why all the statues seemed to look as if they were designed by disney.

It was a good 15min walk before we had made it back to the bottom of the hill, past the turtles and back to the car. Which was the start of the next adventure. The is an even higher attraction on Penang island; Penang hill. I had already received and recommendation from my housemates to climb the hill. (anyone else would call it a mountain.). No I am all for a bit of exercise, however in the sweltering heat it didn't seem like a great idea. Fortunately for the lazy member of the population there is a cable car to the top. Driving ip to the entrance indicated that something was amiss. It looked more like a construction site with a small illegible sign at the entrance than a grand cable car system. Further advice from the men on the site was that the cable car was out of action until next year.

Fortunately milli had a plan B, which was to travel to the top using a jeep service starting from the entrance to the botanical gardens. The drive there was pretty quick though the parking wasn't clear so we had a good 200m walk to the jeep organizers which felt more like a group of 4x4 enthusiasts trying to make a buck than a fully organized company. On the way of that 200m walk we picked up some rojak, which is fruit douse in a sweet and something brown sauce. While interesting on the taste buds was not much more inspiring than what it was contributing to my overall weight. Finly arriving at the un-uniformed coordinator and discovering the prices had increased for evening shift we agreed to defer the exercise, concede defeat to this mighty hi and go have something to eat.

Mlicent took us to a we hidden hawker centre ( you would never find it without a guide ) on the shore with views over Penang harbour, Georgetown, and the northern tip of penang island. In this hawker centre you could access food from all over the world including German bratwurst. We stuck with local selections including BBQ'd swordfish, omelet garnished with snail, BBQ duck, soup and more. As usual it was fantastic and further enhanced by good company and all washed down over a glass of beer. It was sad to have the night end as Millicent had to work the next day and had a lengthy drive back home. (she lives in butterworth which is located on the mainland). Before she left and dropped us at our hotel we agreed that rather than making the journey to the island we would catch the ferry and go enjoy the food on what is her real hometown.

The next day was a write off! Well not entirely but without our guide we stumbled and faltered in regaining our independence. After a slow start we finally got ourselves into a position to walk through the city. We didn't make it up the hill, didn't wander the gardens, instead we walked out of the hotel and used pot luck. We stopped in at a book store, asked for information about travel to thailand. By this time I was getting hungry but tool a wrong to into a historical districts which was charming in the collections of buildings, temples and mosques. But was very light on food outlets. What didn't help was the fact that the government was doing maintenance on the water infrastructure and so large parts of the island had no access to water for 8 hours and so many restaurants didn't open.

The one we did find had a poor lady churning out Char Kway Tiew, another local dish to the neighbourhood meaning that it was a good 20min wait before our food arrived. Our apple juice also required the juicer to buy some apples down the road. :) after lunch we headed back to the shopping street to pick a man bag I desired and went back for a second helping of Chandol and Penang laksa. With not enough time left to do anything substantial we headed back to the hostel and surfed the net.

After our brief sojourn we headed with renewed excitement and light rain out to catch the bus and ferry to butterworth. Our timing worked with Dutch efficiency and we were on the far side in no time admiring the harbour on the way over. Even as we exited the bus station as instructed millicent pulled in and took us on board.

After trying to get take out from a streetside hawker and a restaurant, the first didn't have any food available, the second was a 30 min wait we headed to a sea side restaurant with views of Penang island a night. As most tourists spend all the time on the island they rarely get to see what a sight Penang makes a night as more and more bright lights get built in the city. We ate another fine meal in the balmy air with occasional light rain than made walking in thongs a trifle tricky. We had fried snails, fish and other local delicacies. It was a fine way to end our food tour of Penang. We had eaten ourselves around town and come out fatter by the end. The mix of Malay, Chinese and Indian food including the local variation makes Malaysia a great place to eat. My special thanks goes to Millicent for her wonderful hospitality and grace. May we see eachother again soon.

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