The trip to Luang Prabang is a short 40min hop by plane and as we flew in through the late afternoon sky with the mountains on your right and the Mekong on your left you can but help feel the Luang Prabang that is increasingly getting attention. It is now listed as one of the top ten travel cities in the world. However the more you talk to people here the more you think that it may not last long and development is going ahead at pace. The city and Laos might even get its first golf course soon as a multi billion dollar Taiwanese investment plan is gaining traction.
We grabbed a taxi and traveled to the same hotel that I stayed at last time I was here but they were unfortunately full, so they sent us next door where they looked after us for the same price. A nice 2 bed room with own shower for a healthy 10 dollars. We both had a quick shower before heading to the night market, but neither of us were in the mood to shop and were ready to go to bed after starting the day at 4:30 am. While we were out we came across Mellisant, who we had met somewhat distraught in the travel office in Vientienne. She had planned a four day holiday in Laos for her birthday, and was getting frustrated with the amount of time she had to wait in various places. We had a quick chat on the street and she recommended a crepe stall up the road, so we parted and went looking for some crepes for ourselves. After mum got her crepe we walked to the river and had beer (causes it is what you do in Laos) and dinner before walking back to the hotel for a well earned
sleep.
The next morning we woke up, got dressed and headed out for some Pho (pronounced 'Foe')with extra chilli to help make you sweat. After calling my friend Tee to see what he was doing, we went for a walk around the city, heading out to the main road before returning along the Nam Khan river visiting some temples and shops on the way. We also bought Postcards which we are yet to complete. Tee, who was doing a half day cycling tour, finished at about 2pm and we met him at the cafe next to where he worked. He then gave us a quick tour of the city, including Waty Pha Phon Phao which is a gold painted temple on the top of a hill just outside of Luang Prabang, Wat Xieng Thong, the largest of the temples in Luang Prabang and finishing the day walking up Pousi Mountain to watch the sunset with about 200 other people. We did actually see the sunset, framed by the heads of the other people. All in all a much longer day than we had envisaged. Again we met our stalker Mellicent and
invited her to have dinner with us. Tee dropped us off at our hotel and after a shower and a changed of clothes we headed out for dinner. Mellicent took some time to get our message so we started dinner without her, however when she did respond it took 15 minutes find her and bring her to the restaurant as the lack of distinguishing feature of the 20 odd restaurants along that strip, makes it difficult to direct someone, but it all worked out in the end. We introduced her to some Laotian food and then after dinner went for a beer (or two) at a local bar to celebrate her birthday. Arriving home after the front door had closed, I knocked quietly in the hope that someone would open the door. I think I startled the guy sleeping in the foyer but he kindly opened the dorr and let me in.The next day thing had to get serious and I had to do some of the work I had come here for, but unfortunately my guide had to work again for a few hours. So we had breakfast with Mellicent and said our goodbye's, did some internet before walking into the city. I was on my way places, when Tee called and came to pick me up. This was the day to check prices and estimate costs for the Nam Fen Schools Project (see Facebook page). We traveled to the Pousi Market which is the local markets where you can buy almost everything except large mechanical and electrical imports from China. We got all the prices for school books, pens and pencils, etc... From there we went to look for the prices of soccer balls, before heading to the Big Brother Mouse a local Laos childrens book publishing company.
Having checked out the prices I then sat down with an Dutch ex-patriot that operates a cycling tour company in Laos, to talk about his experience of doing business in Laos. He had very good knowledge of some of the many difficulties of doing business in Laos and was very helpful. Also providing some insight into some of the thing happening in the background in Luang Prabang.
That night we spent in Tee local village so we drove out of town about 15 kilometer south of Luang Prabang and after throwing out bags on our shoulder walked down to the river and crossing b y boat to the other side. The evening light was again
stunning as in filtered through the reeds onto the calm water of the Nam Khan. We had fully reached Laos time as we stopped on the bank to watch the unfolding scene of activity on the river. We walked along the dusty path to Tee's house where I had been twice before but this was the first time for my mum. I introduced my mum to the extended family living with Tee and sat down for some water and beer. With the children playing and a steady stream of local returning from the field we sat and watched while catching up with Tee about all that had happened in the last while. Dinner was served and as usual even though cooked on a wood fire, it was exquisite in quality; by far the best food you can get in Laos. Tonight we went for an early sleep after a few long days.This morning we woke up with a plan to got to a waterfall before heading into the city to buy things for the schools having set our budget and itemized list of what to buy. On the recommnedation of the dutch ex-patriot, Robert, we made a stop past the ministry of education for the region to talk with the officials about what we were doing. At first I was apprehensive as Laos is in the region to 144th on the corruption and transparency lists but was happily surprised when the officials were very supportive of the idea. They wanted no commission and only to know exactly what we were providing to the schools. This was in part so that they could check that what were providing was actually getting to the schools, which is good news in terms of accountability. We took photos with the head of the office and said our thank you's and goodbyes before heading to the waterfall for a bit of R & R. A short walk up to the top of the waterfall and getting a little lost on the way back down was enough excercise for the day and we headed into town.
We started at a shop on the road where we bought 7 Soccer balls, 14 bamboo balls for the Thai style volleyball, 7 nets and butchers paper. After that we headed to the Pousi Market where we bought 350 books, 350 pens, 250 pencils, 48 boxes of coloured pencils, some large books and whiteboard markers for the teachers and tape to hang the butchers paper on the walls. Finally we stopped off at the Big Brother Mouse where we bought 98 reading books of various types. All this for less than $400!!.
With the car packed and a little exhausted, we went down to a cafe on the mekong and, you guessed it, had some Beer. By this stage the sun was setting of the river, a light breeze was heading northward and a little kitten with infected eyes and no
mother was probably spending its last few painful days lying in the sun, and hoping for a little peace and respite. We headed back to Tee's village arriving after dark to the bewilderment of the local washing in the river as we carted boxes and bags of stuff across the river to the other side. It was a very satisfying day and I felt relieved that something had actually been achieved and purchased after so much time. My big thank goes to Tee, who I could not have done it without. There is more to tell, but I need and you need a break. Please keep and eye out for the next edition.
Also full list of what was purchased and what will go to which school will be made available on the facebook page in due course. Bye for now
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