Ayuthaya and Changmai (Asia Trek pt 10)

Sorry about the abrupt ending on the previous blog but I wanted to get it out there. Following a normally uneventful trip back to Bangkok a returned to my previous haunt for the night. All was well except for a one night rerun of the sickness I had had earlier. So much so that I went to the doctor the next day, but the inconsistency of it all made it difficult to diagnose and by that rim I was feeling better. I was given some antacids, but I don't think they did a lot. I doesn't really matter because now for the first time since I arrived in Asia, I feel like my appetite is returning to normal. But I am getting ahead of myself.

Before going on the tour I had planned to travel north to with the train to Ayathuya and then to Chang Mai. So in the morning I did so and hopped on the train in 3rd class comfort to Ayathuya; wooden bench, no air co. Now Ayathuya is the former capital of Siam before it became Bangkok during a coup (of which Thailand has had a lot) Consequently it also has substantial ruins from that period (13Th Century)and is an UNESCO world heritage site!

Upon leaving the station I was kindly greeted by a local working for a guest house on my way from the train station and was able to get a convenient and cheap room for the night. I also rented a bike from him for the afternoon and after a short ferry ride across the river, I was on my way.
The temples in Ayathuya are the old ones in a similar style to those of Angkor Wat. In fact there is a strong Angkor influence in Thailand as much of Thailand was controlled the Angkor empire at its peak. Ayathaya is also a very nice city to ride around, and while not much happened I enjoyed just cruising around.

Most eventful was on returning to the guesthouse, I started talking to two guys; one a Japanese tourist and the other a German expat now living in Thailand. We started talking about Thailand and how it is going (it seems that corruption is becoming an issue of increasing concern generally). A interesting conversation with contrasting point of views from three different culture. I of course had to have it out with the Japanese guy on whaling, though he was please to know that I was slightly on his side. (Please don't kill me for saying that.) I was also taken out for some karaoke, however Thailand has this strange rule that you can't sell alcohol when there is an election and as a consequence many of the bars were closed. So no karaoke, but a interesting but brief insight into an expats life in Thailand.

After getting up in the morning a being befuddled by one of the many tricks and games that the guest house has for you to pass the time. I headed onto the train for the long 10 hours train trip, this time in second class comfort, to Chang Mai. Not much was really achieved, though I was nervous about finding accommodation arriving at 8pm at night. However this proved to be no issue as the tour industry is so well setup that mini buses are waiting to take you to a guest house at low charge; you pay more if you choose not to stay at the hotel you are staying at.

Anyway now to the surprising turn of events. This is Kristian, who I have spoken about earlier. He comes from Scotland and has worked as a joiner and fitness instructor and has a very different background from me. However in the course of us meeting and talking and travelling we have found that we have much in common in terms of our world view though we come at it from different sides. Now the most interesting things happen on your holidays when you least expected it. Going climbing with the support of Kristian made me realise how much I have neglected, no, that may be to strong a word, maybe ignored the physical part of living. Kristian has happily reminded me of the fact that the physical body needs to be worked on, and that sitting behind desks working and studying isn't all there is to life. So I decided there is now better way to start then when you are on holiday.

It started with the rock climbing, and Kristian's free spirit emboldened me to go rope climbing when we really didn't know what we were doing, go bouldering and possibly looking like a fool. He has helped me do things I would not have done otherwise. He has also bee providing me with advice about body training and given me some exercises to build up my core body strength which will hopefully go some way to straightening my back! Oh and it hurt, but no pain, no ...

But all this exercises, talk about exercises and the endless time you have to think while your travelling gave me an idea that might give some direction to my travels. To use this year to learn, focus on, train and test out the old body. there are of course many options in this respect, but one stood out as an obvious starting point!

When in Thailand, do as the Thais do. What do the Thia's do, they box. Not like us westerners but with hands feet and all, Muay thai style. Now this is a brutal sport and don't misinterpret me, I never had or have any intention of stepping in the ring. But now that I am in Chang Mai I am undertaking some training in Thai boxing. Waking up, running four kilometers, then some shadow boxing, taking on the boxing bag before a sparring session in the ring. Now I though the guy was going to be easy on me as I was a beginner, but after a few minutes he deiced to test my defences and gave me one right in the stomach. It is not that hard but I was completely not expecting it so it took the wind right out of me. He got me many more times before the sparring was over; none of it hard enough to do any damage. I had great fun and managed to hold out for two 3hr sessions, the second one starting at 6:30am.

On the way back from the Thai boxing we got three quarters of the way back to the hostel when we were pulled over by the police. We driving a motorcycle which we had rented. Now Kristian has a motorcycle drivers licence but failed to consider that he needed it while driving. So we were doubly fined for not wearing a helmet and driving without as licence and the bike was immediately confiscated until we paid the fine. So what was hopefully a cheap way of travelling around started incurring additional costs as we had to take a tuk-tuk back to the guesthouse to pick up the licence, then another tuk-tuk to the police station to pay the fine, which we did without difficulty even getting out of half the fine on the presentation of the licence and then back to pick up our bike. All of which costs more than the rental of the bike for the day and petrol. It was rather amusing really as the fine was all of 200baht between the two of us.

On returning to the hotel for a shower and rest I contemplated attending another Thai boxing session. However the strain of the first two training sessions quickly took its toll on my untested body. My right foot started to swell, my hamstring started to feel tight, my left ankle became unsteady, and most importantly my right hand man Kristian left to go to Pai leaving me to fend for myself.

Reflecting on this myself, when leaving Australia I hardly expected to be sitting on the back of a motorcycle in shorts and t-shirt driving through chaotic traffic and not really being concerned. Nor would you expect that I would go into a training centre and start learning how to box. But I have since fallen in love with the old motorcycle as a means of travel and it amusing to sit on one with my full backpack, small backpack and a guitar, which goes surprisingly well.

The next day was a rest day where I spent some time limping through the city eating and not doing much until the afternoon where I felt well enough to do some sight seeing. So I made my way to one of the main temples. On my way I met a trishaw driver who offered me a tour. After reflecting on the state of my body it was clear it would much better to let someone else to the hard work. SO I sat back as he took me around to the three main temples in Chang Mai, which were nice top see. Now this is another one of those 60 year riders who have been riding around these cities for ten years gradually being usurped by the faster but much less charming tuk-tuk and moto industry. A pleasant afternoon and was even dropped of back at my guest house. Though there was some communication difficulties about which guest house it was.

The next day feeling a bit better I decided to keep with the exercising theme and hire a bike and ride to a temple, Doi Suthep that was 16km out of the city. Now this turned out to bew a bad move for two reasons. Firstly I tried to save some money by hiring a smaller bike, was just flat out a bad idea. And secondly of the 16km, 11km was continuous incline.

Now it was an experience and I did make to the top after many rests and finally by the tenth kilometer my calf muscle were so sore I had to walk the last kilometer to the top. After which there were 274 step which I had to climb. Each another painful reminder of my stupidity. But it was worth it a Doi Suthep is one of the most scenic temples I have seen in Thailand. And after wondering its surrounds and reeving and blessing form a monk I found a bench and slept for an hour. Much to the amusement of onlookers. From the I descended every painful step again and the blissful rode back down the hill, slowing down for all the cars that took and a slower pace than I would have liked. Again sore and limping I did little more that just hang around the hostel for the rest of the day.

The next day I went returned the bike to the rental shop and packed my bags to leave making the decision to go around the loop from Chang Mai, Mae Sarian, Mae Ho Song, Pai back to Chang Mai. Unfortunately I missed the only bus for that day so i decided to take a bus top Pai and see what happened.