But first some corrections. The crystal mosque, while I am not sure where it is I am ninety percent sure it is not even in Malaysia. I think all the banners were for an Islamic celebration called Hari Raya and they were using images of mosques found all over the world. Hang on? Wait? I'll check Wikipedia!! Oops! No, it is in Kuala Terenganu and has been recently finished. I just missed it. Oh, well you win some, you lose some.
Anyway back to the story. I was intending to do some tours out of Kuala Terenganu to Lake Kenyir or Palau Redang and was promptly told that I would have to pay for two people as that was the minimum persons per booking. I balked at the prospect of paying 360RM for a one day tour. So instead I high tailed out of there the next morning with the impression that there was more fruit for the picking in Kota Bahru and from there I may still be able to get to an island; one of the main reasons for coming to the east.
Having arranged a bus and completed my laundry which was sorely necessary I got on the bus to Kota Bahru without difficulties. Two Italians that I met at the hostel and would meet again the Kota Bahru, missed it and had to catch the next bus.
In Malaysia things usually happen somewhat ambiguously and always 10min after it was supposed to happen. But even I was surprised when half an hour into the bus trip, the bus pulls up on the side of the road next to a mosque and promptly the bus driver get out of the bus followed by 90% of the other males in the bus, presumably to pray. Following that a smaller percentage of women left the bus and entered the mosque through a different entrance, presumably also to pray. Leaving about 6 of us in the bus waiting for about 30min. Really quite a good time to read my book.
When the bus driver returned we drove on to Kota Bahru and arrived in the mid afternoon. After again asking for directions and a location (no one seems to know any street names in Malaysia, even though they are well signposted) I hopped into a taxi for another pointless 5min ride to a hostel.
After puttintg down my bags I went in search of food and to get a feel for the city. I noticed on the map I was given at the hostel there was a river near by so I thought I might head for that. After inconspicuously passing through the cultural district,and passing the old treasury building (see right), I made my way to the river just in time to see a police boat travelling from the left and a hoard of 12 or ski Jet skiers racing up the river from the right as fast as they could. After letting them pass the police boat promptly turned around and went after them, continuously losing ground as time went on.Taking mild amusement from the fact the the police were never going to catch them, I wander back towards the city along the local Merdeka (Independence) Square, where I was greeted by a few children keen to know where I was from and what I liked. After an impromptu photo shoot they invited me to play some football with them, so I spent about 1 hours running round with these kids ranging from age 4 to 13 (i am guessing) answering questions like; do you like romance? have I had sex; do I have a penis; can I see your penis.
I don;t know about you but I found it a little awkward to answer these probing questions, midly amused at it and suprised that kids here find sex just as amusing as kids in Australia (a consequence of my idealism). But, I muddled my way through the inquisition without giving too much away and certainly did not show my genitalia! I was all in jest though and I had good fun with them and particularly the little guy in yellow on the left, who spoke exceptionally good English for his age, was hilarious. We parted as it was time for them to go home and I left with the vague proposition that I may come back tomorrow as I might not be in the city. Well, it turned out that I wasn't! While the hostel I was staying at was not exceptional (except for the pet rabbits and turtles), the hostess provided useful information about how to get to the perhentian islands. But, as it is still the mythical monsoon season so she wasn't sure what would be available and if I could get to the Island.
Confident now that at least the weather would be stable after my declaration and keen for a challenge (this travelling stuff is quite easy really!) I put most of my stuff in storage and headed off with only my swimmers, towel, spare underwear and a torch, to find my way to the perhentian islands. Turned out it wasn't that hard and after some nervous moments waiting for a bus that was twenty minutes behind schedule I made it to Kuala Besut were I caught the ferry. It all went smoothly except that the ferry price was now 50ringgit one way instead of the normal 60ringgit both ways. The excuse for that as with everything on the island was that it was still monsoon season. However as the boat was about as full as it could get, it seemed that the ferry operators were making a killing through lack of competition.
The ferry ride was rough and practically everyone in the boat got wet, but we made
it safely and following the advice of some other travellers went to the Kecil (small) island and wandered over to longbeach to find accommodation.
At the far end of the beach was a resort recommended by someone and upon arrival there were greeted by Kele, the manager who was keen to make us feel welcome, told us to sit down, relax and enjoy an orange juice before getting down to the business of rooms. After being shown around, in order to save costs I ended up sharing a room with a girl that I had only meet two hours earlier in Kuala Besut. I suspect some people who were with us thought it was a little odd, but it worked for both of and saved us both money, so why not.
Given that you are working, its winter in Europe, and you don't particularly want to read about tropical paradise I will spare you many of the details. A few things are worth mentioning though. Despite looking like paradise on the fotos on arrival you
find that the whole place is much dirtier than you expect and the respect for nature doesn't seem as forthcoming in practice as the advertising seems to suggest. With piles of rubbish in various places on the island, or conveniently buried under the sand where the tourist wont notice, or bulldozing a fire trail with the care that comes with a bulldozer to place electricity lines (though notably they use solar and wind power for energy), ideas of a real paradise quickly disappear and you are reminded that this is industry and there is money to be made. But!! Snorkeling with the giant turtles was amazing!
I had a good time, met more foreigners and played soccer with the locals, who take the idea of a working 'day' very loosely, and after two night I left back to the mainland as I needed to get moving. I leave with only the memories and a back that is completely burnt to a crisp, as I didn't put on sunscreen while snorkeling given that the day was half overcast. In addition while throwing a Frisbee, my little toe said hello to a tree stump that decided to grow on the beach, tearing some of the skin of in reply. Hence I am being persecuted for my sin, of relaxing on a tropical island and sent I clear message that I should be at home, working like the rest of the world. But unfortunately I have more money to spend and therefore must continue despite the odds.
As a general side note, after two and a half weeks travelling through Malaysia, I really have settled into the place. Despite currently being I Kota Bahru were Islam
is most dominant and conservative(compared to the rest of Malaysia), I feel totally comfortable in the city. I cannot but admire the colourful dresses that the women wear with almost always a matching Hijab, especially when they are seated on the back of a scooter with helmet on. I can also certainly recommend the place. The people are friendly, honest (except maybe the taxi drivers) and extremely helpful. There is also plenty to see particularly if you catch the local buses.Now I am heading back inland into the Jungle, via the Jungle railway. 11 hours of train, I don't no if my backside will survive it but here's hoping!
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