The Missing Monsoon (East coast Malaysia ) Asia Trek Pt 4)

I left you last in Kuala Lumpur and regret to say that I didn't think much of it; just a poor version of Singapore. However I think this was in part due to my mind set more than the city itself. After relaxing in Malacca, KL was to busy and stressful for me. I did see the city from the top of the Communication tower however I didn't go to any of the sites. Maybe I will be in a better mood when I go back through KL in a week or so. The one memorable days, was a trip to the Batu Caves.

You may or may not have heard that there is a big Hindu celebration at this time called Thaipoosam. The Batu caves, where the main celebration is held in Malaysia, is just outside Kuala Lumpur, just beside an industrial district. While is was not there on the celebration day, the celebrations were already beginning on the Sunday before hand when I went. What a spectacle of colour as thousand of Hindu many wearing yellow proceed up the 274 steps into the Batu Caves where a temple is now located. The Batu caves, more a cavern, than caves, reeks of humanity as you walk in, partly from sour milk which is carried up the stairs as an offering but also the many people and monkey that frequent the place. While not overpowering it make you reach for some fresh water to sooth yourself. The various rituals that people make vary from carrying a small milk pot on the head, to carrying an elaborate kavadi , or having a series of hooks placed in the skin with either fruit or a person hanging of them. You should be able to Google more images if you really want to see what I mean! The whole experience was quite moving, particularly when you seen children of 5 or 6, making there way up the stairs with the pot of milk on there heads. This is made even more moving by the fact that each person making the pilgrimage has a support person that goes with them through the entire process, to make sure that they are okay; not all make it without serious difficulties.

The view from the caves with a giant gold statues is also impressive as you walk around the area. With plenty of food available of all sorts, no doubt the big day was a massive festivity despite some calls to boycott the celebrations due to political overtones relating to racism and the lower average living standards of Indians in Malaysia.

After spending three night drinking (at least everyone else was, talking and jamming with a French impromptu rapper "Jean", I felt the need to get out of KL. I wasn't until the last moment that I made the decision to head east to Kuantan, as I was constantly hearing threat about the 'monsoon'. A quick check of the weather online gave me hope that the weather would be no worse on the east coast than it would be on the west coast. So departing all my new found friend who have chosen firmly to stay on the east coast, heeding the monsoon warnings, I left on my own to Kuantan.

I was a beautiful trip across the mountains through the heartland of Malaysia and there were still many more palm plantation to pass.

I has no idea where I was going to and what my plan was but on arrival in Kuantan I found it to be a relaxed little fishing village (well more a city) with an extensive promenade along the river. Young kids and older fisherman where fishing along the river all afternoon as I read my book. Watching the people walk past. Kuantan even has its own Hollywood style sign which is even lit up at night. I only stayed there one night as there is no that much to do, but there is a substantial mosque. The town has a very good feel to it (as do most Malaysian towns).

Worried that Palau Tioman was closed due to the Monsoon season I took the bus north to Cherating. This was more challenging than I thought as getting clear information out of people proved difficult. After receiving extra help, and breakfast, from the receptionist at the hotel and talking to another three people I was still clueless as to which bus to take and at what time. So I sat with my backpack hoping a bus would arrive that would have a sign on it saying Cherating. Fortunately, not ten minutes later one came (i found out later there is one every 30 min) and after double checking with the driver sat it my seat, waiting to pay. trying to get off proved, not difficult, but fraught with uncertainty. Asking the person behind me if he could tell me when to get off only resulted in him getting confused, as sent me off to the bus driver. The bus driver indicated he understood but I was not convinced, particularly after crossing a river, he stopped and the whole bus preceded to tell me to get off. I hopped of the bus only to find there was little to indicate I was in the right spot.

I proceeded to walk down the road I was pointed to, and promptly found the guest house I was looking for. Well not a guest house but a collection of huts. I waited in the communal area as there was no one home and 20min later a middle aged lady came wandering up and asked if I wanted a room. I negotiated a price for to nights on what was to be my home away from home. I little hut painted white and pink with own shower and toilet (am I glad I payed the extra money for it). After settling in I made may way to the beach. The main road is a road, with the footpaths currently under construction lined with little cafes, art shop and resorts. Much like your typical Australian beach town, only built with old wood and corrugated iron roofs. The beach itself is marked b to facts. The sediment (i presume for the river) make the seawater look brown, but you can still swim in it, and the way the water hits the beach means that as the tide goes down it leaves large lagoon on the beach whose later warm up over the day allowing you to talk a warm bath on the beach. That is about all I did for to days.

Expect for the fact that on the first evening I had a beautiful lime fish dinner at a restaurant on the beach that was nice and spicy. So much so that the next morning my bowel were all upset and going to the toilet resulted in a ring of fire. Hence I was glad that I had my own toilet to deface. But after spending the morning working it off, I headed out for another day on the beach, this time staying away from overly Spicy foods. I would have undertaken more except stupid me forgot to get money before I left to Cherating, which as no ATM and no money exchange facilities. So I spent little after that and headed further north with 6 ringgit and US$500 in unusable travelers cheques (I have now taken steps to avoid it happening again).

The bus trip out was relatively painless and after a short stop off in Kemanan, I made my way further north to Kuala Teranganu where I am now. This city gives me the same sort of feeling of entering Canberra after driving round in rural Australia. A large but not over large city, it is the state capital and the wealth shines (though at a markedly lesser level than Canberra). All the streets tend to have curbs and there is more parkland and cultivated public spaces than i have seen elsewhere. There is also the case of a Crystal Mosque being advertised everywhere, but i can't for the life of me figure out where it is. Also Kuala Teranganu has also got the friendliest children anywhere I have been. After only walking around for a few hours I have had a least five different groups of kids coming up to me asking my name. It makes you feel so ridiculously welcome.

As for the so called Monsoon season. Well, I don't know where it is,as currently I am enjoying the hottest driest weather of my trip so far and it is expected to continue for days. I haven't had a thunderstorm since leaving KL and only had light rain after dark. So I am now declaring the Monsoon a myth that should not be believed. Although in a way it is a good thing as it means that prices are low for me as noone else is here.

Anyway dinner time!
Note this image is from back in Singapore, when I tried to eat a take away curry. I failed miserably, even pouring half of it on me when trying to throw it out and ruining one of my t-shirts! Pay close attention to the arrangement of cutlery!